The vast expanse of Alaskan water, ice and wilderness combine to create an environment that inevitably makes many people feel small. From bald eagles soaring in the wild to magnificent glaciers melting at alarming rates, I was able to see first-hand why everyone I had spoken with in the past about Alaska refer to it as a “magical” place.
As part of the season-ending 13-day cruise which embarked from Los Angeles, we had the privilege of visiting Ketchikan, Juneau, Skagway, and Glacier National Park. Unfortunately, there was an issue with the port in Victoria, British Columbia so that essentially became another “sea day.”
Visiting Alaska really reinforced the importance of traveling and getting to know a place and its people, in person. Over the past couple decades, so much news has been made and politicized about Alaska. It is reasonable to expect people to visit with certain biases, however, after speaking with locals, I really got a better feel for how difficult life can be, here.
In short, these are hardworking folks who care about the environment. At the same time, when the climate presents people with few choices aside from fishing, logging and oil, and the Federal government places barriers on these industries, people are going to be left out in the cold, no pun intended. Additionally the Alaska Resident Stipend (PFD) mineral royalties paid out to residents is quickly running out and people have come to depend on this additional money. It’s certainly a difficult situation and I empathize with all sides.
Highlights from each port of call follow below:
Ketchikan: Really has the vibe of a blue-collar, hard-working port city. There is a small airstrip that was busier than I would have anticipated. The main draws are hiking trails and the infamous stretch of brothels, that starts with Dolly’s house Museum. What presents itself on the surface as a sleepy town gets even sleepier in winter months. Based on the conversation I had with the cashier at a souvenir shop, the retailers close once cruise season comes to an end, leaving full-time residents to deal raging unemployment. Those who do not budget or who do not earn enough to budget for the slow winters are forced to undertake odd-and-end jobs to make due. For this reason, he spoke about rampant drug (particularly meth) use.
Juneau: Juneau is a bustling metropolis compared to Ketchikan, though based on what I heard, it is still a far cry from Anchorage. There is ton of history here and the majority of our time was spent hiking and whale watching (see related blog entry). Our guide was a personality and had lived all around the world, epitomizing the breed of folks who are genuinely interested in protecting the environment and sustaining life.
Skagway: If there is such a thing as a hipster community in Alaska, Skagway would be it. It is truly an eclectic blend of people from all over the world. Our server at the well-known Red Onion Saloon lives in Skagway half the year and was getting ready to drive back to Austin where she sings lead in a metal band. The city has a ton of charm and has a little something for everyone, from hiking, to architecture, to train history and of course, shopping. Some of the residential parts off the beaten path looked a little rough.